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John deere mower quits when hot

Lawn mower engines, including those on John Deere products, need the correct combination of fuel, air and ignition spark to keep running smoothly. If the mix is out of balance, the mower may start, but it dies out quickly.

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Much of the troubleshooting, and even some of the fixes, associated with stalling mowers may be tackled by John Deere owners. Leave the more complicated repairs to service technicians. Water and dirt are enemies of a properly running engine. Should water enter the gas tank, it will choke the motor as it flows through the carburetor and into the cylinder. Water gets in the tank through condensation, or through an ill-fitting gas tank cap.

Dirt enters the system through the gas storage can, or accidentally when the tank cap is off. Dirt simply clogs fuel flow, resulting in an engine that sputters and stalls.

Drain the gas tank, clean it and fill it with fresh gasoline. Dispose of the contaminated fuel properly.

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Replace the fuel filter, too, which could have absorbed too much dirt or water to be effective. Check the gas tank cap. It should have a small vent hole on top that allows back pressure for proper fuel flow. If the hole is blocked, the engine will stall.

Sometimes, though, the mower cranks over, but dies out after only a few minutes of operation. As the mower warms, heat causes some expansion, which can exacerbate a flaw in the plug. Inspect the plug after removing it from the engine. If the gap between the center electrode the metal protruding from the firing end of the plug and the ground electrode the small piece of metal that bends over the center electrode is too big or too small, you can adjust it for proper spark.

A rounded center electrode or a cracked porcelain housing, however, indicate you must replace the spark plug with a new one designed for your mower. Gasoline is tough to ignite without the presence of air. A mower pulls in outside air and sends it to the carburetor to mix with gasoline in a prescribed combination.

Too much air in the system is as detrimental to smooth operations as too little air. Make sure the carburetor mounting bolts are tight.

Loose bolts mean the carburetor is prone to pulling in too much air through the seams. On the opposite end of the spectrum, too little air to the carburetor may be the result or a dirty air filter, which also can cause a mower to stop running after several minutes.

Clean or replace dirty filters depending on the type -- typically, foam filters may be cleaned while paper ones must be replaced.

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Carburetor cleaning and adjustments are best left to professional service technicians, unless you feel very comfortable making them yourself. Externally mounted adjustment screws control fuel flow and engine idling, both of which can make an engine stop running if set incorrectly. Internally, the carburetor has a number of floats, springs, needle valves and spray jets.Repair guides and support for gas, electric, and human powered machines used to cut grass, whether push style, or ride-on.

Albert loves Retta albertretta. Why when I use my lawnmower for 5minutes it gets hot and turns off and when it cools down it dose it again could it be the coil? L Pfaff lpfaff1. Albert, A lot of lawn mowers have a problem with the gas cap not venting properly and will quit running after running a few minutes as you described, try running with cap removed or very loose be-careful of splashing fuel. Here is a link to explain how to fix your mower. Tap on or click on the blue link.

I hope this helps. Good luck!

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Fix Your Stuff. Back Answers Index. Lawn Mower Repair guides and support for gas, electric, and human powered machines used to cut grass, whether push style, or ride-on. Albert loves Retta albertretta Rep: 1. View the answer I have this problem too Subscribed to new answers. Is this a good question? Yes No. Voted Undo.

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John Deere quits running when hot. Thread starter mountaineer Start date Aug 23, Joined Aug 21, Threads 1 Messages 2. My JD shuts off after about an hour of mowing. It has about hrs on it and has never had any major issues. Once it cools down, it will crank right back up. And then again when it gets good and hot, it'll shut off again. There are no caution lights or anything associated with this issue.

Antifreeze and all coolant components checkout. Any idea from anybody out there? Joined Sep 11, Threads 10 Messages 1, Joined Nov 29, Threads 36 Messages 15, You must determine if when it shuts down if you are losing fuel or losing fire.Seems to be heat related, because after cooling a bi, it will start back up, sometimes running normally, sometimes a bit sluggish.

I've been to a JD dealer and two independent mower shops with this problem, and they always want to clean the carb and do a tuneup, saying it is fixed. One shop changed both coils AND the computer box.

This KAW has been a piece of junk from the beginning, and I'm considering replacing it with either a newer KAW or a Briggs Intek, but I'd like to first try to figure out what is happening with this thing if at all possible.

Any ideas?? Reply Quote. The first step is to determine why it is stopping. If you're certain that lack of spark isn't the cause, then it may be lack of fuel.

Why when my lawnmower gets hot it turns off

When it dies, can you get it to fire by spraying starting fluid into the intake? Don't go crazy with the spray on a hot engine, but if it will fire on starting fluid after it has died, then you'll know that lack of fuel is causing the problem. Vaopr lock can be caused by things getting hotter than they're supposed to - for example because of blocked cooling fins. It's for sure NOT dirty cooling fins. I've power-washed the whole thing with the seat, deck, fenders, etc. The radiator cooling fan is working fine and I can feel lots of heat blowing out of the plenum, but I flushed it out as well.

I'll write back when it dies again, and let you know what I find out. I have a and this is happening to me. I had many air locks occur in the fuel line between fuel pump and carburetor. I would remove the hose at the carburetor and prime the system again and the tractor would go a couple feet and quit.

As the motor got warmed up, air bubbles started coming out of the fuel pump to the carburetor. The gas line from the fuel tank to the pump had no visible air bubbles. The bubble rate increased as the motor ran at operating temperature. As the engine cooled, i noticed the air was now pushing the gas back towards the fuel tank. I can only think of two possible sources, air was getting sucked in by the orfice on the pump or maybe pressurized crankcase air was passing by the push rod seal that operates the mechanical pump.

The latter may explain why the air pressure is still present after the motor has stopped. I replaced the pump and it ran fine the first time doing light work with short run times. The second time i was cutting grass and it was back to the same old problem.

Why Does My John Deere Lawn Mower Stall After 20 Minutes?

Does anyone have an explanation? It may also be caused by a vacuum in the gas tank if the cap's vent hole is plugged?When a lawn mower bogs down, the engine seems to lack enough power to keep the blades slicing through grass.

Allowing the engine to cool may help, but the problem can surface again after several minutes of mowing. While it seems that the mower is unreliable, the cause of the problem may require minor repairs. One result of internal combustion engines is that they generate heat. Dust and grass clippings generated by mowing can lodge between these fins, forming an insulative barrier that prohibits the heat from escaping.

The engine overheats and has trouble working properly. It might stall as you push through grass, or it could even die from the strain. The plastic shroud that protects the top of the engine is also a debris trap. A small engine needs the right mixture of air and gasoline in order to run smoothly.

Too much of either can cause problems. Small gaps between components are one source of leaks, and these can become a bigger issue as the engine heats and the gaps widen. Tighten the bolts that secure the carburetor, those that hold the air intake manifold in place and the ones holding the head to the block. The gap between the two electrodes has to be set precisely in order for the plug to provide a strong-enough spark to ignite the air and gasoline mixture.

Too wide a gap can widen even more as the mower heats up and the metals expand. As a result, the mower can lose power and efficiency. The same thing can happen with a plug that is fouled with carbon buildup from mowing long hours, or from a damaged plug. You can reset the gap and clean fouled plugs, but damaged spark plugs must be replaced. The choke is an internal carburetor component. When the choke is closed, it provides the engine with a mixture rich in gasoline for startup.

After the engine warms, the choke opens and a normal air-to-gasoline mixture moves through the carburetor. If the choke sticks shut, the mower runs poorly, and it could stall or bog down as you mow.

You can clean the choke and its linkages, which should free it up. Some mowers have an electronic solenoid attached to the carburetor. This device controls the choke. If it has failed, you must replace it to restore proper carburetor operation. A deeper issue is valve clearances that are too large, resulting in low engine compression. One valve then opens to allow combustion gases to escape, then the other opens to allow air and gasoline into the chamber.

Adjusting and repairing internal engine components, such as valves, requires tearing down the engine to access these components.

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Unless you have experience or knowledge of deep engine repairs, you may want to consult the services of a trained small-engine repair person. Robert Korpella has been writing professionally since He is a certified Master Naturalist, regularly monitors stream water quality and is the editor of freshare. Korpella's work has appeared in a variety of publications.

He holds a bachelor's degree from the University of Arkansas. By Robert Korpella. Engine Overheating One result of internal combustion engines is that they generate heat. Too Much Air A small engine needs the right mixture of air and gasoline in order to run smoothly. Sticky Choke The choke is an internal carburetor component.Thanks to the sturdy yet straightforward engine your lawnmower runs on, you can fix most of these issues with only a few tools and little DIY knowledge.

Read on to learn how to recognize each issue and solve it quickly and painlessly! I know it is frustrating but we can troubleshoot this! Whether your lawnmower runs on a two or four-stroke engine, old, obsolete, or oxidized gas can result in a loss of power.

If not resolved promptly, this issue can eventually lead to engine failure. Here is what can cause gas issues and how to solve them depending on the kind of engine your lawnmower boasts:. John Deere makes some 2-stroke push mowers. These engines do not possess an oil injection system, so they run on a premix of gas and oil, which is inserted directly in the engine. If the gasoline used for the mix is old, it could have attracted water, which, in turn, can oxidize the fuel. I prefer to use ethanol-free gas which stores longer.

Fuel Shelf Life Comparisons. If you notice your lawnmower overheating and the suddenly losing power, one of the possible causes is that the premix has gone bad. Since this prevents the engine from working correctly, empty the gas tank, fuel line, and proceed to flush the old gas out.

Try again with a newly blended premix. The oil enters separately. As long as there is enough oil in reserve, the issue almost always lies in the gasoline.

If you have used ethanol-based gas in your lawnmower that was sitting in your garden closet for over six months, it might have absorbed water. Ethanol can cause significant issues to a mower including malfunctioning in the engine and, if you left the old gas in the machine, even ruined the parts of the engine. Due to the bustling activity that takes place in it, this component is also the most likely to show signs of damage.

Luckily, carburetors are also among the most accessible parts to repair and replace, if needed. Carburetors have the crucial task of creating the perfect mix between fuel and air. Such elements, when sparked, give life to combustion, the process that is at the core of your lawnmower. The most common issues with a carburetor are impurities and cracks in the integrity of the casing. If your lawnmower starts and stays in idling but then stops abruptly as soon as you increase the throttle, the carburetor might be dirty or clogged.

In this case, you will need to clean the carburetor throughout with appropriate carb cleaning spray. If you are a little lost, watch this short how-to guide from YouTube. Sometimes seeing someone go through the process makes it a little easier to follow. This is less common but if, while cleaning the carburetor, you notice cracks and ruptures, the only thing to do is swap it for a new one.

Carburetors are particularly inexpensive and easy to find in your closest John Deere service center or online. And by the way, another sign that the carburetor might have cracks is leakage from the lawnmower while working.

If you notice this, stop the engine immediately. You may need to adjust the carburetor to regulate the amount of air and fuel entering the engine. Gasoline produces residues that, over time, can stagnate at the bottom of the gas tank. However, these residues are filtered by the fuel filter, which prevents them from entering the engine.

It is very common for the filter to become dirty and clogged, which prevents enough fuel from reaching the engine. A symptom of this issue is your lawnmower working correctly on idle and then dying as soon as you increase the power. This is because the clogged filter can allow some gas through but not enough when the demand is increased.

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